Alfredo Martínez’s new collection is a love letter to Paloma Picasso. The Mexican designer dresses femme fatales and he remained faithful to the aesthetic that he’s been perfecting for the last decade; his two preoccupations, sex and power, get along very well together. The ’80s were everywhere in this show, especially in the pronounced shoulders and tight silhouettes; the looks never lacked for statement accessories like black tights and seductive red lips.
One thing that was new here: Martínez left behind the structure that characterized his past collection, freeing himself of some creative ghosts, as he called them. This is how new garments enter his repertoire, like an eclectic dress with polka dots, fringes, and red and blue patches, which he explained he both “loves and hates.” Leaving it in the collection was part of that new freedom he’s after.
