Joseph Altuzarra was in the midst of fitting his resort collection the last time he left his office in March. Over the course of the next few months, the clothes morphed in response to the changing world situation. Like other designers affected by the pandemic, Altuzarra latched onto notions of familiarity and ease. Fans of the label will recognize, for example, this collection’s gingham check from a spring 2015 show. In fact, he used the very same material on a deconstructed shirtdress here. He also re-created the gingham on the stretchy knit material he used for a cardigan, cami, and tube skirt ensemble that he says did well with buyers.
That three-piece ensemble is representative of the comfort he built into the new offering. Following a similar line of thinking, he added knit trim to a shearling wrap coat, designed a “shacket” in the same soft flannel as a pair of matching trousers, and otherwise rethought the suit as matching knit separates. Occasionwear got a reimagining too as one of those three-piece ensembles in a biscotti-color yarn with gold sequins threaded in. Driving home the point about relaxation and well-being, Altuzarra paired the evening look with thick lug-soled lace-up boots. Turns out, he developed those boots pre-COVID-19. “I wanted something more utilitarian; they’re sort of like what I wear every day,” he explained.
Regarding that long ago spring 2015 show, I wrote, “Sex is rarely far from the surface at a Joseph Altuzarra show.” Come to think of it, the subject of sex has rarely come up in this lockdown season, despite the preponderance of what we’ve all agreed to call at-home clothes. But Altuzarra addressed the topic, descriptions to the contrary notwithstanding. The deconstructed shirtdress was worn open at the neckline to reveal a matching bra top, and the skirt of the cozy evening ensemble came with one of his trademark slits. If we’re not going back to the office anytime soon, let’s at least have some fun. Right?
