Alberta Ferretti is known for a flair for flou, a term that in the haute couture lexicon defines an ethereal, diaphanous silhouette achieved through a free-flowing cutting technique. But in her Limited Edition collection this season, she evolved her approach, moving away from her comfort zone and trying her hand at a more structured look. Apparently, young customers appreciate the high-impact attitude that a shapely, sculptural dress can give.
“Sensuality, lightness, freshness: This was the spirit I wanted to express,” Ferretti said. Indeed, the collection felt modern in the neat volumes gracing showstopping ball gowns, as in a gorgeous pink number, where a finely pleated column was enveloped by an undulating spiral of silk duchesse satin. The same wavy motif was transformed into a ruched trompe l’oeil cape, worn off the shoulders over a long, sinuous dress in luminous silver-gray duchesse satin. A series of short dresses had a young vibe; a glam hourglass-y example was proposed in an emerald green shade, with curved sleeves for a bit of drama.
Embellishments, one of Ferretti’s most recognizable traits, were kept to a minimum here. The accent was definitely on contoured lines and sleek silhouettes, though a svelte minidress, cut like a T-shirt, was embroidered in silver sequins, and a tailored tuxedo, resplendent with metallic sparkle, had a ’70s rock vibe that looked cool.
