Alena Akhmadullina has rethought her over-the-top aesthetic for Pre-Fall, all the way down to her inspirations. Traditionally, the designer looks to a Russian fairy tale for ideas, but here she opted for a more Western story: The Snow Queen by Hans Christian Andersen. Despite the starting point, there was considerably less fur than usual from Akhmadullina—just three lone minks.
The relative lack of fur was refreshing, especially as she’s attempting to further solidify herself in a Western market. In addition, Akhmadullina seems to be applying a more precise focus on her silhouettes. Many pieces took on a sharp ’80s form, complete with shoulder pads to emphasize an hourglass figure. A red blazer with a nicely whittled midsection was a standout. The retro motif was a bit too literal with a rhinestone-dotted denim dress featuring costume-y prom sleeves, but elsewhere, Akhmadullina worked her fairy-tale angle in simple, unexpected ways, such as by transforming a could-be geeky knit sweater with a loud snowflake print via Lurex and a pale, icy palette.
One thing to watch from Akhmadullina are her ladylike bags. They came in red leather and gray velvet, along with a catchy enamel bird emblem on the flap. Germophobes take note: Metal claws prop up the bag so the bottom won’t touch any surface.
