The first three looks from Alexandre Vauthier’s Spring couture show were nearly identical: a black caban adapted from the 19th-century École Polytechnique uniform, black base layers not long enough to qualify as a dress, and laced boots almost high enough to compensate for such risqué lack of coverage. The repetition wasn’t a matter of being spoiled for choice; it was his way of reiterating the exact construction of a piece that, more than any gala gown, should top a woman’s couture wish list. The corresponding sleeve variations—long, short, and sans—addressed tailoring subtleties not noticeable to an amateur eye.
Still, any warm-blooded human could be forgiven for focusing on Vauthier’s other obsession: the bombshells who bring his brand of sexiness to life. He imbued them with an unparalleled Parisian attitude—at once strong-willed and romantic—and dressed them in his turbo-charged versions of tailleur and flou: from a jumpsuit in red patent leather, slicker than wet nail polish, to asymmetric shirtdresses pleated in variable dimensions by specialty maison Lognon. Some of these wildly diaphanous looks would have begun as simple designs, transformed like the basic tank that became a crystal-covered showpiece thanks to Maison Lesage. But Vauthier is well aware that investing in a couture cargo pant requires considerable incentive, hence versions in shimmery silk Lurex lamé and leopard-spotted lace, with overstatement zip pockets the size of oven mitts. And voilà, exactly the type of wearable folly that his OTT celebs will love. Ditto the ostrich hoodie. His LBDs, meanwhile, were unapologetically fierce, yet safe enough to survive shifting trends.
During the design process, Vauthier couldn’t shake a vintage vision of Robert Redford and called up Ray-Ban to help with customized aviators. His pal, perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, enhanced the venue with a vaguely masculine rose scent. The collection didn’t need either of these additional signals to strengthen a vision that could be considered among the designer’s most cohesive to date. Just as the models didn’t need to be wearing glorified foundation garments. But you got the sense Vauthier wouldn’t have it any other way.
