By chance, the Prada-clad fashionland power hub—and Love magazine editor in chief—Katie Grand entered this presentation alongside your designated Bally Pre-Fall reviewer for today. Little did we know that the collection we were drifting in to see was in part inspired by Grand’s particulars. Pablo Coppola’s peppy Irving Penn–inspired bee-stung lip print featured, he said, some comely divided incisors sourced from Grand’s dental records. Grand’s chompers aside, this collection was the latest in a series of solid Coppola productions. As he often does, he vibed off an idealized midcentury past—or a collage of them—but brought the clothes into the now.
So, yes, a plastinated black mini trench was un peu Belle de Jour. A long brown suede jacket over fitted pants with a triangular cutout on the hem whispered of Love Story. The chessboard wool gingham suit and spectator shoes were drawn from the menswear collection, presented simultaneously next door. The writhing vipers-nest-of-belts print was carried over from last season, but the sickly purple cellophane-bonded mini and high bomber were a fresh and fine fabrication.
This was a Pre to preorder. But had Coppola told his dental muse of her part in his art? “Yes! I just told Katie when she came in. She thought it was funny.” And would he be offering her royalties for her image? “No! And if she asks, I can just switch the story and say it was Vanessa Paradis.”
